25/08/2010

Tips and Trick: how to fill the data into the IC memory, without any programming tool (IC programmer).



IC MEMORY, that might be familiar to our ears, let us discuss briefly the function of this EEPROM IC

based on its memory capacity is usually written with a number 24CXX, for XX is its capacity in Kbit. Example 24C08 means eight kilobits capacity, many of which sell in the store with number 24C01, 24C02, 24C04, 24C08, 24C16, 24C32. which are sold at electronics parts stores are still empty of data.

Memory on the television serves to store data or configuration settings

* Sound system, color system, NICAM / Stereo / Mono, AV / DVD / SVHS /, also works for subwoofer or hardware options such as stereo IC processing, IC av switch, tone control IC, etc.
* Last Factory function also stores data such as: white balance, sub contras, the vertical size, horizontal wide, settings etc.
* Data (user adjustment) or by the user settings such as volume, bright, contras, color, bass, treble, channel programs such as a channel filled with a frequency of 600MHz etc.

How are the working mode EEPROM IC?

At the moment we turn on the television set, then the IC will copy the program (read) the contents in the IC memory such as how much volume is how much vertical, .it will be done when it is turned off and data has been changed (CHANGE BY THE USER ) will be stored into the EEPROM IC. (writing)

Problems that often occurs is when the process of writing and then the electricity suddenly dead, then this could lead to a content data from the memory IC is damaged. (Coruruption data).

In sharp tv, damage to the memory ic TV usually Turn on and then off with flashing LED lights. the amount of flashing was usually show parts that are not working or wrong setting.

Try to imagine when at the time of setting up suddenly we forgot did not record the initial value setting before we make changes, so that it becomes irregular tv.

TIPS The following is how to set its ic memory back to default, or to a standard position (standard settings).

* To prepare IS spare parts: IC EEPROM with No Data (Empty). If its existing content sometimes did not work



I am here will provide simple tips especially for tv SHARP:

* For TV sharp by placing the IC MEMORY is empty on tv chassis,
* Then it should not turn on the tv.
* The next step is connect ( short ) a jumper for the service mode in the tin solder should be to second jumper, for sharp tv series wonder or his universe there are jumpers J122 and J124.
* Well it was only after the TV is turned on for the first time with a new memory IC (empty) wait a moment will occur the process of Writing. The result wooow default settings (standard setting them) are already occupied, then we just make adjustments to the vertical course.
* After all OK don't forgot to release the tin solder on jumpers

To Polytron To restore the default position mode is the usual way into the service mode.

* Standby used
* Press and hold down the menu button on the remote
* The screen would appear and ask for Pass word
* For 1013 no adjustment
* To set no 1014
* And to return to the default setting is 3101

20/08/2010

the workings of frost free refrigerators (defrost System)




There are many separate components in a refrigerator's defrost system that must work in consort for a frost free system to work properly. We will attempt to explain the workings using simplified electrical schematics.

The heart of the defrost system is the defrost timer. The timer is a motorized device that opens and closes electrical contacts. Each contact can be thought as a light switch, one controls the defrost cycle, the other the cooling system. When one of these is switched on, the other is switched off. A motor on the timer (NOT illustrated) turns a cam that opens and closes these contacts at set intervals (see below for other types).
Cooling Cycle

Refrigerator cycling on thermostat (cold control)During the cooling mode, the defrost timer closes a contact to the compressor circuit so it will run. The circuit to the defrost heater is open.

While in this mode, the thermostat (a.k.a. cold control) cycles the compressor and fan motors on and off to maintain an appropriate temperature.
Defrost Cycle

Active circuit in defrost cycle
The defrost timer eventually switches into defrost mode and supplies power to the defrost heater(s) to melt any frost that has accumulated on the evaporator (cooling) coil.

The cold control contacts remain closed but since the defrost timer is no longer feeding power to that circuit, the compressor does not run.

Once the defrost termination thermostat (a.k.a. defrost limit switch) senses a set temperature, it opens the circuit to the defrost heaters, shutting them off. The timer remains in the defrost cycle until the timer advances back to the cooling mode. Since the limit switch is open, the heaters are no longer on for the rest of the cycle.

Cooling Cycle

When the timer again advances back into the cooling mode, the compressor will start to run along with any air circulation fans. The defrost limit switch will remain in the open condition until it is reset by cold temperatures.

Shows defrost termination thermostat contacts closing and timer contacts to the heater circuit still openOnce a set colder temperature is reached, the defrost termination thermostat closes again. This is OK since the defrost timer is no longer supplying power to the defrost circuit, the heater does not get energized.

When the defrost timer again advances into the defrost mode, the limit thermostat will already be closed and will allow power to be supplied to the defrost heater to melt any frost that has developed on the evaporator coil again.
Fans

Fan(s) runningNormally the interior evaporator and exterior (if present) condenser fan motors should run whenever the compressor is running and vise versa. If the timer is stopping operation of the cooling system, neither the fans nor compressor should usually be running at that time.
Symptoms

The most common symptom of a defrost system failure is a complete and uniformly frosted (not iced) evaporator coil. Frost may also be visible on the panel covering the evaporator, usually in the rear of the freezer compartment.
Progression of evaporator frosting

Excessive frosting can be cause by the defrost heater or limit thermostat being open (ie. defective), a mechanical defrost timer sticking and never advancing into the defrost cycle or a problem in an electronic defrost control or one of its sensors failing to allow the defrost heaters to be energized.

Sometimes (but fairly rarely) both heater and cooling system can be energized by the timer at the same time. This can result in thawing then refreezing of food in the freezer compartment often leading to freezer burn on that food. In most cases the evaporator coil will remain mostly in an un-frosted state. The defrost heaters will cycle on and off as the defrost thermostat opens and closed due to the temperature it senses.

Refrigeration System Problems
Partially frosted evaporator coil

If the evaporator coil is only partially frosting or a ball of ice develops on just a small area of it (see illustration below), it is usually a sign of a refrigeration system problem in which case a trained refrigeration technician will be required to determine the cause and correct it. These conditions are not caused by a defrost system failure.

Defrost Component Locations
Top-freezer refrigerator with the evaporator cover panel removed exposing the evaporator (cooling) coil

On most frost free refrigerators, the evaporator (cooling) coil is inside the freezer compartment covered by a panel. The freezer fan motor is usually in the same general area.

The defrost heater is mounted onto or woven right into the evaporator coil in the freezer. The defrost termination limit switch is usually mounted on the side of the evaporator coil or on one of the connecting tubing.
Evaporator coil with defrost heater and defrost limit thermostat shown

The defrost timer can be in various places including behind the kickplate at the front of the cabinet, inside the fridge compartment possibly in a control panel along with the thermostat or on older models, at the back in the motor compartment by the compressor. Some strange Kenmore refrigerator models had the defrost timer built into the icemaker unit.
The Defrost Heater
Glass Tube Defrost Heater

The defrost heater is basically a wire filament enclosed in a quartz, glass, aluminum or other material, tube sheath which gets hot when powered. It will either have resistance (show continuity) and be good or will have infinite resistance (no continuity) and be defective. How much resistance it has is irrelevant as its resistance will not normally change except to being open (infinite resistance) when it fails.
The Defrost Termination Thermostat

The defrost termination thermostat (aka defrost limit switch) is basically a small SPST (single pole) electrical switch which is actuated by temperature. Depending on the temperature it is, it will either have no resistance (show continuity) and be good or will have infinite resistance (no continuity) and be defective. At room temperature it will usually be open (which is normal and not a sign of being defective) and only close when it gets cold. How cold it has to be to close will depend on its particular calibration but usually near or below freezing point.Some newer model refrigerators (Amana and Frigidaire in particular) and some older models (GE included) run power for the evaporator (freezer) fan motor through the defrost heater element and defrost limit switch. If either of those components should fail, remaining open, the fan will not run which will stop the circulation of cold air throughout the refrigerator.

On that design, the evaporator fan motor will not start running after a defrost cycle until the evaporator has had a chance to begin cooling again. While it is generally a good design idea so as not to blow the warm defrost air throughout the refrigerator, a failure in one part of the defrost system will usually render the whole refrigerator ineffective because of the lack of air flow.

Defrost Timers Types

Defrost TimerEarly production mechanical defrost timers would go into the defrost cycle after a set amount of time. Common timing periods were 6, 8, 12 and 24 hours. This meant that say every 6 hours, the refrigerator would go into defrost whether it needed it or not. The duration of time it would remain in the defrost cycle was fixed and could be anywhere from 18 to 30 minutes depending on the timer design but it would always be the same length of time.

As stated above, the defrost heaters may not be on for that full length of time, thanks to the defrost limit thermostat, but the cooling cycle would not start again until after the complete defrost duration was ended.

This original design was wasteful as the refrigerator would defrost regardless if it was necessary or not. A later design tried to help this a bit.


Cumulative Run Timers

The next design was called a 'cumulative run' timer. These timers were installed in a way were they would only count the time that the refrigerator (the compressor) was actually working. This makes sense since no frost could build up if the compressor was not running.

These later mechanical model timers would only advance the into defrost when the compressor had actually been running for a certain length of time, usually 6 to 8 hours of accumulated compressor operation.
Adaptive Defrost Control

ADC - Adaptive Defrost Control exampleThe latest, energy saving variation is electronically controlled and called an adaptive defrost control. Not only does the period between defrost cycles change but also the time duration of the defrost cycle itself. The device is programmed to keep track of the appliance usage and how long it takes for the evaporator coil to be thoroughly defrosted. It will then calculate the amount of time required and adjust itself accordingly.

GE's 'Mother Board'

Newer GE made refrigerators are almost totally electronically controlled. Their motherboard takes the place of both the temperature and defrost functions even controlling DC fan motors that can operate at several different speeds. On this system only the defrost heater is the same as described above. A defrost cycle is ended when a thermistor detects a temperature rise of the evaporator which is the signal to the main control to terminate the defrost and start the cooling. The termination thermostat on this appliance design only acts as a safety device to shut the heater(s) off in case of a malfunction before the plastic interior liner melts, otherwise it is never active. The control can not be manually put into defrost mode.

Timer Testing

Defrost Timer showing Advancing ScrewThe mechanical timer types described above will usually have a screw on their underside which can be turned clockwise to manually change its present cycle. If running, slowly turning it until it clicks once should put the timer into 'defrost mode'. When in the defrost mode, turning it until it clicks once should put the timer into 'run mode'. It can be left in the defrost mode to see if it will advance by itself to the run mode (like it should in less than 30 minutes) or the defrost heaters may be able to be tested to see it they are receiving power or not at that time.

NOTE: Once the compressor has been turned off, it should be allowed to sit for several minutes (5-10 minimum) before attempting to restart it. This is required to allow the internal refrigerant pressures to equalize so the compressor is able to restart again without putting excessive strain on it.

Test points and how to manually switch adaptive defrost controls into the different cycles vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. For these, check the appliance's mini-manual for instructions which is most often located behind the kickplate at the bottom front of the refrigerator but may also be inside the actual control panel with the defrost control.

16/08/2010

How to measure the voltage on TV



Voltage measured on DC scale, black cable multitester / avometer put on a negative path or can be slipped on the silver wire in the tube that is not disposable wrapping.

Next, measure the voltages are available:

* For 180v voltage can be measured on the positive pin elco (10uf/250v) in PCB RGB tube.stick pin red wire multitester


* Voltage 110v for TVs 14 "-21" and 130v for 25 "-29" in the B + FlyBack Transformer (FBT), find the path there is elco 100uf/160volt. measure on a positive foot elco.

* For 12volt voltage, please measure at the foot of the right edge of IC 7812.


1. For voltage 5V, please measure the right foot of IC 7805.
2. For voltage 33v, please search at the foot of VT in tuner.
3. To measure 90v-300v, scale use DCV 250.
4. To measure the 12v-40v, use a scale of 50 DCV
5. To measure the voltage of 1V-9v, 10 DCV-scale use.
6. How to measure the voltage on the yoke and in plyback is;
* From the yoke horizontal = Fcc 110v DC, 1000 V. AC voltage can be removed with a red plug in output and in use as dB meter.
* From the yoke pertikal 24 DC current model, except for disposable coupling C = 1 / 2 Fcc. While it could be IC 120V AC (with dB meter)
* At Fcc FBT kolector; 110v DC, AC voltage = 1000 V..
* At Fcc FBT filement / heater = 5V-5, 5V AC.
* In the FBT 20-32k anode voltage V measured with 40kv HV probe is added to the multitester 1000 V. DC.
* Voltage others depending on model and type of TV. 180v out there (for RGB) directly from the regulators, transformers, Video Amp taken from FBT.
* There are 24V and 46v vertical FBT, also 12-18V depending on brand and type.
* Voltage 600 V DC and focus around the screen 400v DC.

Thus tip n trick from me (AGUS YUSTIARA ), hopefully useful.

VGA Monitor Block Diagram

Problem with the Toshiba TV Combos

The Problem :


By camden0221 on Aug 16, 2010

We have a DLP television and it will not turn on and there is a red light flashing in the bottom right corner


Solution 1

AGUSYUSTIARA
Rank: Guru
Rating: 92%, 10 Votes
you should check on the power regulator, usually there are several components that cause damage with symptoms like that. I will try to describe some existing components associated with such defects:

1. Elco 100uf/160 or 220uf/160 Volt, may have been damaged / leaking or dried fluid
2. Horizontal output transistor, such as D1554 or similarities
3. Zener Diodes (5Volt) for the IC Program or 12-volt regulator on the main Power (Live Area)

Also check the voltage B +, must be available 115-volt DC, when the TV is turned on. And 5-volt voltage to the IC program should be available even when the TV in stand-by mode

12/08/2010

Overfreezing and icing in fridge or freezer


One cause of icing up and over freezing in a fridge or freezer can be a poorly fitting or damaged door seal. If the door seal becomes distorted the seal will start to allow warm moist air into the freezer or fridge. This will cause snowy ice to deposit around the point of entry which will eventually cause the compartment to completely ice up.

If the door seal is worn, then clearly it needs replacing but sometimes it’s just a matter of re-shaping the door seal with the aid of either a hair dryer or a warm cloth. Carefully heat the seal and try to form it back into the right shape closing the door and letting the seal cool before opening the door again.
Another possible cause of frost in fridge or freezer

If the fridge or freezer is not level, the cabinet may become twisted, this causes the door to not fit properly and the seal to not seal properly. This can allow gaps which again allows warm moist air to be drawn into the appliance. If affected make sure the appliance is properly level by adjusting the feet or if necessary by placing some packaging under the feet. You can always try the paper test, which is to place a piece of paper between the seal and the frame and see if it will hold, if it doesn’t the seal will be letting warm air into the unit.

Note: Many modern fridges and freezers do not have replaceable door seals. Only complete new doors. This is disgraceful but just another symptom of manufacturers making appliances less repairable in the race to make finished goods cheaper.

On the subject of door seals it is not advisable to open any fridge or freezer door by curling your finger’s around the frame as this can result in the seal splitting. Always use the handle, and don’t forget if you do reshape a door seal always fully defrost the unit afterwards. Another point to remember is that if the door seal has split on the face that touches the frame it needs to be changed. If it is split on the outer side crease it is only cosmetically unsightly.

Appliance Error codes


Are you looking for washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer or other white goods appliance error codes?

Although this article doesn’t offer a full list of error codes it does describe how most of them wouldn’t really help anyway, and comments on why they aren’t freely available. It also offers some advice, and links for someone investigating an error code. I will be publishing some error codes in later articles under this error codes category if they are codes that can offer genuine help to the public and don’t involve much diagnostic work or technical competence to sort out.

There are thousands of error codes for washing machines and other white goods. Most of them only give clues to an experienced engineer about where to look, or they implicate several different parts or causes to be investigated. Many of these error codes are confusing and even unhelpful, some are genuinely useful, but most are useless to the general public.

Manufacturers do not make the majority of these error codes available to the public and in fact some manufacturers don’t even publish them to independent repairers in the trade, the legality of which is currently being debated. The legality of a third party publishing these error codes to the public is something I am unsure of. I’m pretty sure the manufactures would not like them published but I have doubts about whether they could claim copyright on a bunch of letters and numbers and some cryptic fault descriptions. They are hardly creative works that need protecting and neither are they sensitive commercial data that could be useful to rival manufacturers.

I would have thought that a company cannot stop someone publishing facts, and at the end of the day if an error code X1 means that the water isn’t draining out of a washing machine and X2 means that the washing machine has timed out on heating up the water it is hard to see how these facts should remain secret and on what grounds, especially when the owners of the affected appliance may find the information useful.
Example of error code explanations that are NOT useful to the public

Here’s an error code description :

“E34 = incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of electronic pressure switch 2 (duration of fault at least 60 seconds) – possible causes – 1: Hydraulic circuit of pressure switches 2: Electronic pressure switch 3: Pressure switch 4: Wiring 5: Main PCB.”

If your washing machine displayed the above error code and you received the explanation of it, I doubt it would be of any use because you still need to know how to diagnose the fault, and how to test individual parts. It could have too many different causes. It may even be necessary to speculatively change the main PCB (which an engineer can often do because he may have one available to try, which can removed if it does not cure the fault).

It wouldn’t even be useful to allow you to at least shrug your shoulders and say, “ah well, it’s obviously an expensive fault so I need a new washing machine”, because at least one of the possible causes is a wiring problem which might only be a poor connection somewhere. I would argue that being furnished with that error code would leave most people none the wiser. Many error code explanations are equally cryptic or cover too many possible causes to be any use to the public in general.
Even concise error code descriptions can be unhelpful

Having said all the above, there are examples where an error code description is much more precise, implicating a specific part, however, on more than one occasion I have experienced replacing the named part only to find that the fault remained. I’ve also had many cases where only a connection fault is implicated by the error code explanation but the fault was actually caused by a faulty part.

Some error codes also just give an obvious description of what has gone wrong such as, “motor not running” or, “not draining”. This type of error code explanation is also next to useless because they don’t contain any diagnostics and instead simply describe the fault which anyone can see for themselves.
Examples of error code explanations that CAN be useful to the public

Another example :

E11 = Problems with water fill in wash phase (maximum 10 minutes for each fill phase). Possible causes = 1: Tap closed 2: Mains water pressure insufficient 3: Solenoid valve 4: Hydraulic circuit of pressure switches 5: Pressure switches 6: Wiring 7: Main PCB

This error code explanation is more useful because two of the possible causes are simple things that most people can check, 1: Tap closed and 2: Mains water pressure insufficient – and they don’t even need to look inside the washing machine.

A certain percentage of error code explanation is potentially useful to the public, a few are even mentioned in the instruction book because they refer to problems that a customer could potentially fix themselves such as blocked pump or filter, a kinked fill hose, or maybe a tap that has been accidentally turned off.

My first suggestion if you want an error code explanation is to check your instruction book as most of the codes that you can do something about are listed there. For other simple and straight forward error codes please check or keep tabs on this section as I will post them occasionally.

11/08/2010

Analysis and how to Fix the Generic problem for all Refrigerators



if symptoms of damage such as: fridge not cold, no noise from the compressor, how to analysis and improvement:

1. Check the incoming voltage to the compressor, make sure there is voltage coming into the compressor, a simple way to hold the engine compressor. if there are hot that means the voltage has been entered. the part that does not work is the compressor. you should replace it and fill freon. you must have special equipment to be replaced, such as welding equipment, analyzer to check freon pressure and pressure compressor. and many more tools that should be necessary.
2. Thermostat how to replace it: simply replace the existing thermostat in the freezer space, there is a screw that must be opened, open by pulling the cover and then remove from the holder thermostat. replaced in accordance with the size and spec. there are only two wires are connected there, no matter if inverted in installing.
3. Timer: Timer can be damaged, causing the compressor does not work, the indication: there is no noise from the compressor. timer location near the compressor (in box) or in room fridge, usually near the refrigerator light. first try to turn the timer until the refrigerator running. if it still does not work just replace the timer.

4. check the fuse and the thermo bimetal (thermo switch) and the heater as a function of defrost in the refrigerator. these parts have anything to do with the function "timer", if one is not functioning will cause the refrigerator does not work normally even the refrigerator is not cold.

05/08/2010

Problem for Panasonic TX-32LX1F 32 in. LCD Television


The problem :
By 07shaz on Sep 07, 2008
" "
picture keeps going off replaced by vertical coloured lines. switching tv on and off rectifies it but happens every 10 minutes or so. not sure of model but has a blue light behind controls on tv when in standby mode

The solution by : AGUSYUSTIARA

Rank: Wiz
Rating: 96%, 7 votes

It is usually caused by problems from lead solder that sometimes does not connect, so there are some points of the components that are not connected with lead solder to the circuit. if it appears vertical line means from the IC (integrated circuit ) Vertical, you can solder all the points in the IC ( Integrated circuit ).

Problem for Frigidaire GLRT83TES Top Freezer Refrigerator


The Problem :

By gghomebbb on Jul 23, 2010
" "
my refrigerator doesn't get cold, and has a sound likr click

frigidaire model#glrt83tes

Best Solution
posted on Jul 23, 2010


AGUSYUSTIARA

Rank: Wiz
Rating: 96%, 7 votes
First you can check the compressor behind the refrigerator, make sure the compressor is alive/ running or not. if it does not mean your compressor is damage or worn out, but if running there is leakage between the cooling duct so that its run out of freon. then it will not cool your refrigerator.

Generic problem for all Refrigerators


The Qustioon with Haier Refrigerator :

By rout_kshirod on Jul 30, 2010
" "
Hello Sir, I am using a double door Haier refrigerator from last five years. It has two containers. The upper container is freezer and the lower container is refrigerator. Since yesterday, the lower container (refrigerator portion) is not getting cooled but freezer part has no issue and it is perfectly cooling. Request you to kindly suggest the proper and quick solution. Thanks. ~Kshirod Rout.

The solution :

AGUSYUSTIARA

Rank: Wiz
Rating: 96%, 7 votes

Ok, I'll give quick solution for you. Tell your problems, I can confirm the problem actually comes from the freezer, due to excessive clotting in the freezer, precisely at the cavity insulation or air ducts from the freezer to lower the freezing container is covered by ice. so that the cooling in the lower container is not maximal.
How to repair:

If you understand and know where the refrigerator TIMER. you can set the timer to the defrost function. sign is the compressor will stop when the timer is set to defrost, the ice melting process by a part called HEATER , will occur in the Freezer.

If you do not understand, the easiest way is, Unplug your refrigerator electric outlet and allow you to not use the fridge for a while until you confirm yourself all the ice frozen in the freezer had melted. can be seen from a water reservoir that is located under your refrigerator. usually a tray that can be withdrawn. Ok then, hopefully this solution can help you.

Thanks, AGUS YUSTIARA

Problem with the Samsung WF337AA Front Load Washer


cannot open the door when it was almost...

The Question :
By lhyen_fronda on Jul 31, 2010

when it was almost finished it just display UE then i tried to open the door to arrange the clothes but i cant open it


The solution :

'EU' is to signify "unbalance error", the solution is a set back position of your washing machine should not be tilted or balanced from the floor surface. if it is considered balanced, try to restart your washing machine from the first process.

Problem with the Hotpoint Aquarius WF220 Front Load Washer



The question : By otpm on Aug 04, 2010

Hi - I have a Hotpoint WF220 Front Loader and am getting a small amount of water leaking at the front of the machine underneath. I am trying to take the top off so I can see where the leak is coming from but not sure how to. I have remove the two retaining screws from the back of the top cover but it is still attached somehow at the front. How do I remove the top please?

The solution : try to open the tray detergent, it seems there is still a screw holding the top cover. and you can search for cap of the screw on the top front cover.

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